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Project cooperationUpdated on 17 December 2025

In Vitro Testing and Cell-Culture Innovations

MD, PhD at BV Dr Bernard Cambier

Ghent, Belgium

About

In cosmetology, in vitro testing and cell culture innovation plays a central role in the development and safety assessment of cosmetic and cosmeceutical products, particularly within the European regulatory framework where animal testing is strictly prohibited. These approaches rely on advanced human-relevant biological models, including reconstructed human epidermis and full-thickness skin models, primary human skin cell cultures, co-culture systems, and increasingly sophisticated three-dimensional (3D) tissue constructs.

Such models enable the systematic evaluation of skin compatibility, irritation and corrosion potential, barrier integrity, inflammatory responses, and biological efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and finished formulations. By mimicking key structural and functional characteristics of human skin—such as stratification, lipid organization, and cellular cross-talk between keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and immune cells—these systems provide mechanistic insights that are not achievable with traditional in vivo or simplistic 2D assays.

In addition, modern cell-based platforms allow for the integration of functional endpoints and molecular readouts, including cytokine release, gene expression profiling, oxidative stress markers, and barrier permeability measurements. When combined with high-content imaging, omics technologies, and computational analysis, in vitro testing supports a more comprehensive understanding of biological effects, dose–response relationships, and safety margins relevant to human use.

These innovative methodologies are fully aligned with New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) and directly support compliance with EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, as well as OECD-validated alternative test guidelines. Beyond regulatory compliance, in vitro and cell culture-based strategies significantly accelerate product development, reduce development costs, and improve translational relevance by generating human-specific data early in the R&D pipeline.

Overall, in vitro testing and cell culture innovation represents a scientifically robust, ethical, and future-proof testing paradigm for cosmetology, enabling safer, more effective, and innovation-driven cosmetic products while meeting evolving regulatory and societal expectations.

Topic

  • DESTINATION 5: HORIZON-HLTH-2026-01-TOOL-03: Integrating New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) to advance biomedical research and regulatory testing

Type

  • Partner seeks Consortium/Coordinator

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